Dutch Delights: The Magic of Winter Days

© Jane DeanThe first snow day of the winter and in its wake the dreary, endless days of the Dutch fall are forgotten. Day after day of leaden skies, like a dirty, heavy, sodden blanket thrown over the country, dripping constantly, suffocating and claustrophobic. The woods, my usual haven, have been quagmires of tar–like mud, black and sticky, the water table only an inch or two below the surface of the ground. Horses in the fields have drooped their heads in weariness and resignation, sheep huddled into corners protecting each other from the ceaseless weeping from an unforgiving sky.

All that changed yesterday afternoon. We’d felt the delicate shift in the wind, hurtling down across Europe from the wastes of Siberia and the northern lands. A sharpness and smell that whispers, ‘winter is coming’. Not the date marked on our calendars, but the natural winter of bitter winds singing of desolate places far from here.

DSC04663It is strange to sit in our warm, cosy homes surrounded by air from arctic places where few of us will ever venture. Its smell is distinct – the scent of clean, dried-outdoors laundry brought in from the cold. The purest air we’ll breathe unless we are lucky enough to stand at its source.

The first flurries started as I drove out of The Hague, the dark band of snow following me home, and fell in heavy, deep flakes through the afternoon. We slept with the drapes open last night, to watch the flakes dancing and pirouetting against the spotlights of the street lamps, illuminating their performance as they fell earthward.

This morning, in the dark dregs of the night, before the tinge of daybreak gloomed over the horizon and with snow banked up on the window frames, we watched as the first traffic began to move cautiously and hesitantly in this new world. Opening the window, an icy ridge of snow fell inward, a blast of scented air hurtled behind it scouring the room, and the muted world outside was quiet under its bedding.

© Jane DeanThe snow continued to fall and in the greyness of dawning light the monochrome beauty of winter was on display, sky and earth merged into a snowy mass. And the light, oh the light, reflected upward, illuminating dark corners not seen since the end days of the summer.

The snow has stopped now, the sky covered with a different grey from those of the past months. A broad shade of mid-grey, heavy with snow still to fall, a delicate duvet filled with feathers, ready to rip itself open and cover us with beauty.

I’ve been feeling the child-like anticipation build all night, recalling of a line from James Joyce (The Dubliners) ‘ …and snow was general all over Ireland’ thrilled by the layers of meaning within it, its depth and weight soft like snow.

It is not a regular occurrence in our lives to experience snow and its memories are rare and precious.

At age three trapped by an icy slope in the back garden, the feeling of panic as I slid downhill backwards and away from the safety of the backdoor; aged seven, ice-skating on the lake by the local university, during a winter whose date is cited as one of the worst.

© Jane DeanIn my teens, one of the passengers getting off a city bus to push it up a hill, later a group of us cycling across another frozen lake.

As an adult learning to drive on snow and ice on a deserted lane in the grounds of a country house; the glory of the Yorkshire moors and driving through extreme snow and weather in labour with my daughter; snow on Christmas Day 2005 in New Orleans (a harbinger of momentous times to come as it turned out) – moments captured in my snow globe of memories.

The reality, of course is very different from these magical expectations. As cars and trucks struggled on ungritted/ unsalted roads today, my spouse took an hour to reach the A12 in The Hague, normally a 10 minute drive. Two hours later the A12 ahead of him en route to Rotterdam was closed and he reported in from Zoetermeer, to the east.

© Jane DeanHe was, however, incredibly cheerful and enjoying himself immensely, safe from the calamity he would undoubtedly have encountered in his own road-hugging vehicle – he was warm and snug in mine, our default disaster vehicle, big high and all-wheel drive.

Here at base camp I discovered a pair of Harry’s outgrown snowboarding pants from 10th grade when he was, for a moment, around the same height as me, which – incredibly – fit (okay, so I had to breathe in a bit and the legs were too long) and a Finnish snow jacket discarded by our eldest some years ago. Donned with those, several scarves, a hat and heavy duty walking boats, the Archster and I ventured out.

The day didn’t disappoint.

Snow deeper than expected (24cm/ 9 inches of pure, dry, powdery snow – I measured it) its fleecy blanket muting all sound. In the quiet of the woods, with unmarked banks of snow huddled around trees and draped over fallen logs, the appearance of a wardrobe wouldn’t have been out of place.

© Jane DeanAs the belt of snow passed through, the winter sky was exposed, an unobscured view upwards for miles, the early morning sky washed with a watery hue the colour of fresh apricots – no rosy pinks and tinges of soft violet in these wintery months. And the light was extraordinary, as it always is with snow, awakening the senses, kick-starting the brain

I know tomorrow the snow will have turned a greasy grey, dropping from trees in wet dollops, unable to soak away into the already saturated ground. The daylight will be turned in on itself, back to the normal winter gloom, which is why I am so grateful for today.

We need days of unexpected delights, to feel a child-like enchantment in the simple and pure, to feel joy, if only for a moment, in the glorious display of nature, often lost in urban lives.

Today will be added to my snow globe, put back on its shelf, ready to be turned and shaken on other days, in future times. I shall sit within it, amongst the memories, watch the snow fall and catch snowflakes on my tongue, in places far from here.

© Jane Dean

For the record, these are all colour photos, not black and white!

About wordgeyser

Our anglo/american family used to live in four countries (USA, Canada, UK and the Netherlands) on two continents, separated by distance, time zones, circumstance and cultures. It has been a scary, enriching, challenging place to be. The only things guaranteed to get us through were a sense of humour and the amazing people met along the way. . . This year everything changed with a move for us from the Netherlands, – and a move along with us for our son and his wife from the UK – to Houston, Texas, the same city as our daughter. With our youngest in Vancouver, Canada, we are now all living on the same continent. How this happened, and more importantly why, will be the subject of this ongoing blog...
This entry was posted in Advice for New Arrivals in the Netherlands, Expat Experiences, Inspiration and Reflection, The Netherlands and tagged , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

19 Responses to Dutch Delights: The Magic of Winter Days

  1. Suraiya Khalid says:

    Just came across this by chance, looking for information on winters in Netherlands. What a wonderful read!! I really enjoyed it and so wish that I too can experience this magic at sometime in my life!

  2. Fiona Clarke says:

    Beautiful words and stunning photos. Fx

  3. Adriana Blanc says:

    Jane, I am soooo impressed! I would read your books in a heartbeat! Please write a novel!!! I would market it for you! You are an amazing writer, thank you!

    • wordgeyser says:

      Adriana you are a sweetheart! I really appreciate your comment – it’s always difficult to sit and write alone with a laptop not knowing if what you write will resonate. Glad this worked for you!

  4. Ellen Worling says:

    Beautifully written Jane. It has been a magical few days and it sounds like some more to come next week. Perhaps we will get skating after all.

  5. Stellar writing Jane. What a treat for us to read!

  6. expatlogue says:

    Breathtaking writing. The pictures are beautiful too. Thanks for taking us there.

  7. Apple Gidley says:

    A description as beautiful as the scene itself!

  8. Maggie says:

    Brilliant blog Jane. You’ve really captured the day and that special fresh sense (all senses) of the snow bedecked land. The photos are great too and Archie is having a good time, isn’t he?

    • wordgeyser says:

      Have to admit I have enjoyed today Maggie, although the poor dog had a ‘tide mark’ round hie body where the snow had stuck to him in clumps – very uncomfortable with the snow so high! Wondering if it’ll be skating by the weekend?

  9. Lovely piece Jane! Great pictures too, especially of Archie (so cute!). I went for a walk too and took my camera – it is gorgeous outside! x

  10. Jon says:

    That’s some damn fine prose!

  11. angielibra02 says:

    That was beautiful Jane! Very poetic and it makes you feel as if you are part of a painting. Gorgeous!!

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